This is a dish that falls squarely into the category that my friend Jeannette calls dolce far niente cooking. Perfect for hot weather, it is light and cooling but has strong, invigorating flavor. And, as the dolce far niente thing implies, it requires hardly any effort.
You’ll want a couple-few cucumbers, a healthy-sized bunch of cilantro (yes, cilantro is a vegetable, now hush), a couple cloves of garlic, and a hot chile or two of your preferred degree of heat. Additionally you’ll need some salt, some rice vinegar, a little sesame oil, a colander, a bowl, and a knife. Proportions may be varied to suit your tastes and the number of mouths you’re feeding.
Peel your cukes if the skins are thick or bitter, or not if they aren’t. Seed them if they’re the kind with lots of watery seeds, or leave them intact if they don’t. Cut the cukes into happy bite-sized pieces and strew with a tablespoon of salt, toss, and let sit while you clean and coarsely chop your cilantro and your chiles. (If you happen to have a jar of salt-fermented chiles in the fridge, this is a good time to use them. You can also use drained chopped pickled chiles if you like.)
Rinse your cukes in the colander and give them a good few shakes to get the water off. They shouldn’t be too salty but they should be a little salty. Rinse out the bowl. Put the cukes back in the bowl with the cilantro and chopped chile. Crush a couple cloves of garlic, or mince them, or however you prefer to render a garlic clove into something approaching a fine schmear, and add that to the mix. Add a glug or two of rice vinegar and a glugette or demi-glug of sesame oil, toss, taste, correct the seasonings if need be, and serve.
If by chance you should recall, as you head to the table, as I did this evening, that you have an avocado that is on the overripe side, or even one that is just becoming ripe I suppose, seize it up immediately, peel it and chop it up and add it to the salad.
This is very fine as a side dish, especially with cold noodle dishes, fried plantains, or with fish or seafood. It is also a delight as a main dish on a hot evening, particularly if you add the avocado.














That totally made my mouth water. Must try this!
Posted by Lisa on June 23rd, 2010.
My God, I want this NOW.
Do you have a recommended recipe for salt-fermented chiles?
Posted by Queue on June 24th, 2010.