08.18.08

Hollyhock Dressing

Posted in Uncategorized, cooking, culture, food, food allergies, non-casein, non-dairy, politics, salad dressings, salads, vegan, writing at 2:00 pm by Hanne Blank

Upon discovering my dairy allergy, one of the categories of things that immediately vanished from my food options was the category of the creamy dip or dressing. Mayonnaise, of course, was still an option, as were creamy-textured dips and dressings that had a mayonnaise base, since mayonnaise is an egg emulsion and not made with dairy products. But since it is frequently impossible to tell visually whether a dressing or dip that one is served at a restaurant or party is exclusively mayonnaise-based or whether it is dairy-based or as is often the case, made of some combination of dairy and mayonnaise, I quickly learned to just avoid anything that looked creamy.

This wasn’t a huge problem. I’d never been devoted to creamy dressings and dips. Then again I certainly had been known to enjoy roquefort or ranch salad dressings now and then, and once or twice a year would get a horrifyingly intense jones for the Lipton onion soup sour-cream-and-onion chip dip and would eat a whole pint of it over the course of a couple of days. It didn’t seem like so much to give up. Still, not having the creamy-dip/dressing option got annoying after a while, particularly after I started to realize just how many vinaigrette-style prepared salad dressings also contained ingredients I couldn’t eat, most commonly in the form of small amounts of cheese.

Oh, I know from vinaigrettes and egg-based dressings, don’t get me wrong. I’ve been making my own salad dressings on a fairly regular basis for years. I can coddle an egg or two for a Caesar salad with the best of them (I just leave out the parmesan, and add extra anchovies). But… well… sometimes you want something with a nice creamy mouthfeel. And you don’t necessarily feel like being bothered to coddle eggs to get it.

Enter Hollyhock Dressing. The recipe was given to me by my wonderful friend and darned good cook, Liza, who warned me, not a bit hyperbolically as it turns out, that the stuff is addictive. It really is. Hollyhock dressing is fantastic stuff. It’s garlicky. It’s savory. It’s vegan. It keeps well. It’s easy to make, providing you’ve got a blender. And it’s creamy.

Seriously, this stuff is so good that I rarely make less than a double batch at a time. Often, I make a triple batch.

The ingredients are simple and few.
the  mise-en-place for hollyhock dressing

For a single batch, you will require:

  • 1/3 cup water
  • 1/3 cup tamari (you can use soy sauce but the flavor isn’t as good)
  • 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar (you can use red wine vinegar or cider vinegar or whatever vinegar you like, but the flavor will be accordingly different, and balsamic is so yummy I rarely mess with anything else)
  • 1 cup olive oil
  • approximately 1 bulb worth of peeled raw garlic cloves (I usually just use 15 cloves because I peel large quantities of garlic ahead of time)
  • 1 cup nutritional yeast

The method, likewise, is a complete and utter cakewalk:

Whiz the liquid ingredients together in your blender with the garlic until the mixture is as smooth as you can get it. Add the nutritional yeast in thirds, whizzing it together in the blender each time, and scraping down the walls of the blender jar after each blending. At the end, blend the mixture for an additional minute or so, just to make sure everything is completely combined and completely smooth.

Note: if you make a double or triple batch, make each batch separately in the blender, to avoid overloading your blender jar. Pour them out into a large bowl and stir them together as you finish blending the batches, to ensure a uniform consistency and taste.

Store, refrigerated and covered, for 3-4 hours before serving, or preferably overnight. Let come back up to room temperature before you serve it, as the olive oil will thicken quite a bit when it’s cold.

One of the best things about Hollyhock Dressing is how versatile it is. It’s great on salad, of course, and brilliant as a dip for crudites. But it’s also a wonderful dip for hard-boiled eggs, and anything you might be prone to dip into aioli or anchoiade you can certainly dip into this, a list which very much includes good crusty bread. Additionally, Hollyhock Dressing has an amazing affinity for potatoes. Pour it over your baked potatoes, or, if you want your mouth to think it died and went to heaven, use it instead of butter/margarine/milk/faux-milk in your mashed potatoes.

Try it. You can thank me later. Or better yet, thank Liza, who gave me the recipe and thus brought great joy into my culinary life… and made it commonplace for my Belovedary, not normally much given to salad-eating, to request a big plate of salad with his supper.

salad with hollyhock dressing

I told you it was good.

(Full disclosure: This photo is of the salad I had for lunch… mixed greens (several lettuces, rocket, parsley, a couple kinds of basil) plus Corno di Toro pepper and two sliced Brandywine tomatoes. My Belovedary, poor thing, is allergic to raw tomatoes, so this is categorically Not His Salad.)

1 Comment »

  1. jonsinger said,

    August 22, 2008 at 11:29 am

    Sigh… this looks and sounds really yummy, but I’m nastily allergic to yeast, and it would take me down in a big hurry. I am tempted try to work some sort of tweak magic on it, but if I’m not lucky I may find out how many ranks of substitution/reformulation one can perform before one is backed into an “irretrievably unpalatable” or “blandly uninteresting” corner. (It definitely wouldn’t be an easy tweak; yeast is a powerful flavor enhancer, and the best nutritional yeasts have very nice flavors themselves.)

    I sorrow with you about dairy; I’ve been allergic to casein for perhaps 2 decades now, and I miss the hell out of various dairy items. (I am not willing to deal with the current remedy for food allergy, but Cytos Biotechnology is currently in 3rd-stage clinical testing of something intended for respiratory allergy, and if we are all extremely fortunate it may eventually prove to have some spillover benefit. Mind you, they’re only testing in Europe; we’ll have to wait a few years before anything happens here.)

    I have a small cautionary note, btw, about “Tamari”. I used to use San-J all the time, because it was really Tamari, not just mislabelled Shoyu. Went to Big H last night to try to buy some wheat-free soy sauce, and was enraged to discover that San-J “Tamari” now has wheat in it. I am thinking about writing them a really nasty letter. Worse, of all the kinds of soy sauce in the store, we were able to find exactly one that didn’t contain wheat, aside from a few that contained grape sugar [unwanted sweetness, to say nothing of the risk of yeast contamination]. I just hope the label on that one brand is accurate, because I bought a bottle of it.

    I think maybe I should go check Kam Sen or Maxim for the slightly out-of-the-way Chinese brands that seem to lack wheat.

    xox –
    jon

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