December, 2006

A Hanukkah present for my Belovedary

P’an Ku’s Companions,
Or,
Where You Come From

By Hanne Blank, based on Taoist creation myths

For Malcolm, Chanukah 2006 / 5767

A long time ago, so long ago that there was not even such a thing as time, before the sun stretched for the first time and felt its bones glowing bright and hot, the Universe was a vast blank Nothing.

In the Nothing it was not light, it was not dark, it was not clear, it was not foggy, it was simply nothing. Endless nothing, nothing at all. There was no curve to the nothing, no walls, not even the suggestion of a shape, and no time either, nothing that would tell you how long ago it had been or how far in the future it might be, only a single unending moment so dense in its nothingness that when Something finally appeared in the Nothing, the Nothing didn’t even notice it.

The Something noticed, though. Huge and majestic, it noticed in its sleep. Eyelids so large they looked as if they had been stitched out of blue whales’ bellies fluttered but did not open. There was a booming grunt, a colossal fart. Then the Something rolled over, cocooned within swirls of chaos and spouts of sound and skeins of primal Stuff, all of which swaddled the Something head to toe. The Something, the Stuff, the chaos, and all the rest, even the grunts and farts, were in turn contained within a vast eggshell.

The Egg was not contained in anything at all. For eighteen thousand years — or so people say — the Egg waited in the Nothing while the Something slept. Every so often the Something would shift position, and drift close to the surface of the water of Dream that it sensed the Nothing beyond its eggshell bed, but there was no reason to wake up yet.

Until there was.

The Something opened its eyes, blinking away the crusts of symphonies yet-to-be, the someday breakfasts of kings and concubines, and future seaside villages. It yawned, and the cataclysm of sounds within the eggshell arrayed itself in sympathy, vibrating the eggshell so madly that a crack opened up in the shell.

The Something could feel the crack in the Egg like you feel a change in the weather. The pressure of the Stuff rushing toward the crack, compelled by its nature to go toward the Nothing, made his ears pop and his skin tingle. The Egg itself, heretofore a silent player in the drama, gave a shuddering, juddering, miles-long moan of weary yearning.

Oh well, the Something thought. No time like the present.

The Something kicked out with one mighty foot, a foot as big as Chomolungma, on the end of a leg as long as the Amazon, and smashed the eggshell into a million times a million luminous shards.

The chaos rushed out. The sound rushed out. The Stuff rushed out. Glittering fragments of eggshell flew into the Nothing, turning end over end like certain sorts of leaves. And everywhere the chaos went, everywhere the sound went, everywhere the Stuff went, everywhere the eggshell went, they left trails of Something behind them.

In the middle of it all was the Something, titanic and naked. His broad face gleaming and his mighty arms outstretched, he spun madly, fingers splayed, in the middle of what had formerly been the void but now contained him, P’an Ku.

As he got over the shock of it, P’an Ku looked around. The new place was exciting and noisy and busy. It would be impossible to sleep, now. Everything was rushing all over everywhere, now that there was an everywhere for it to rush all over. P’an Ku was spattered all over with globs of it. He wiped Stuff and fragments of eggshell out of his eyes and winkled it out of his ear with a pinky finger. No sooner had he cleaned his face off than another clot of Stuff as big as England hit him square between the eyes.

This will never do, P’an Ku thought as he recovered from the blow. He might have said it aloud but he didn’t want to open his mouth under the circumstances. Instead he started sorting.

P’an Ku plucked Stuff from the air as it passed him, caught sounds as they flew. He snatched scraps of shining eggshell as they hurtled by, and snagged hanks of chaos without even looking. The work made him happy. It seemed to be what he was meant to do.

P’an Ku rolled the Stuff into neat balls, some larger, some smaller. decorating them with fantastic, rich, lush arrangements of sound, and wrapping some of them in lovely complicated webs of chaos, all anchored firmly in the Stuff lest it come loose again. The eggshell bits he put in his mouth, feeling the powerful tingling of them slowly penetrate his whole head until his ears buzzed and his eyes glowed. Now and then he would grin just because it was so amusing how the light of the dazzling eggshell pieces shone through the spaces between his teeth.

Eventually P’an Ku had collected and sorted everything that had come out of the Egg when he cracked it open. Exhausted after all his work, P’an Ku looked around glumly. The last time he slept he had had the Egg to lie down in. Now there was no place to lie down.

What to do? Poor P’an Ku was all alone, with nothing but a mouthful of eggshell and a collection of Stuff-balls, hovering in the deep dark black of space. He still had to figure out what to do with his wonderful collections, his carefully-crafted orbs and his mouthful of luminous eggshell. But he was so weary that his magnificent bones ached. He needed rest before he could continue. So P’an Ku tried to lay down where he was.

This worked, after a fashion, and P’an Ku relaxed, wrapped arms like peninsulas around a torso broad as a desert, and began to shut his eyes. Whereupon a Stuff-ball thwacked him hard in the back of the head. He sat up, clapping a hand across his Grand Canyon mouth lest he give in to the temptation to shout and lose all the eggshell bits.

When P’an Ku looked around he could see that his Stuff-balls, no longer corralled, had gone spinning off into space, and were caroming about wildly just as the Stuff and the chaos and the sound and the eggshell had before.

Fine, thought the exhausted P’an Ku, if that’s the way the Stuff is going to behave, I’ll just have to show it who’s boss.

Rallying the scrag-ends of his strength, P’an Ku began to round up Stuff-balls, leaping through space to catch them in their flight. Each time he caught one, he would mash it into a wad with the others, forming a huge ball of Stuff that got bigger and bigger and bigger with each captured ball, chaos and sound interleaved throughout the enlarging mass, no longer elegant but crushed together willy-nilly.

The more Stuff-balls P’an Ku caught, though, the further he had to go to catch the next, because they were still bouncing and flying, still drawn by the inexorable tendency of Stuff to go where there is none. Too, P’an Ku was carrying his enormous amalgamated ball of Stuff, which rapidly became even larger than he. Because P’an Ku was mighty, he kept carrying it, even when his ball began to dwarf him, and because P’an Ku was determined, he kept hurrying after the missing Stuff-balls while carrying his gigantic prize.

Eventually, though, poor P’an Ku could catch no more. He was simply too tired. By this time, though, his collection had formed a Stuff-ball so huge that even P’an Ku realized it would crush him flat if it should hit him in his sleep. So instead of taking the risk of having the enormous Stuff-ball land on top of him, P’an Ku decided that the solution was for him to get on top of the Stuff-ball.

Depleted to the point that his eyelids sagged and his knees wobbled, P’an Ku stood precariously atop his huge ball. He looked out into the black, dimly able to see hints of faraway rogue Stuff-balls, and sighed so hard that the Essence of Life itself was knocked from its fragile moorings within him. Eyes popping fully open in surprise, P’an Ku watched the slender blue wriggling form of the Essence of Life as it danced away into the black, then toppled onto his back, dead as stones.

Instantly a fountain of light erupted from P’an Ku’s head. His mouth, knocked open by the fall, released its glowing shards of primordial eggshell and they plumed up and up and out into the black, spangling the length of space with stars. The stars lit up the body of the dead P’an Ku, half-buried in the soft Stuff he had collected, smeared with chaos.

Blood ran from his ears, turning clear as it hit the surface of the Stuff-ball, running in rivulets and rivers, collecting in ponds and lakes and even seas. The Essence of Life, drawn by the promising sound of rushing water, came to watch, and her delighted dance made P’an Ku’s thick black hair grow leaves and bark, flowers erupting from its whorls. Even the hair on his toes turned to grass that waved in the breezes and winds that had been set in motion by P’an Ku’s final great sigh. As massive in death as he had been in life, P’an Ku’s flesh turned to stone, his bones to precious jewels, his nerves to veins of gold and silver, which is why the most precious gems and metals are found deep underground, layered in the rock.

By and by, probably through the mad whirling whispers of the Essence of Life, who is the only entity to travel between our Universe and the Realm of the August Personage of Jade whenever she will, word of the magnificent P’an Ku traveled to the Court of the Immortals.

“Hm,” mused the dragon goddess Nü-Kua, preening her beautiful blue body so that it shone almost as brightly as the eternal glow of the heavens. “That sounds like something I would like to see.”

With a flick of her powerful tail, Nü-Kua set off to the resting place of the great P’an Ku, navigating by the stars until she found him.

“Such a beautiful world he made!” she cried, marveling at the greens and blues and browns and golds and reds of it, at the steep majesty of the mountains that were P’an Ku’s body, at the delicious sensation of grass beneath her Divine feet. Nü-Kua swam in the lakes and proclaimed them beautiful and worthy too. She flew through the clouds and proclaimed them beautiful and worthy, too. Nü-Kua warmed herself in the sands of the fiery deserts and cooled herself lingering on the glittering ice shelves of the polar zones. For fun, she raced around the equator, chasing her own tail until she got dizzy and fell giggling into the warm, salty sea.

“The only thing wrong with this world,” Nü-Kua said as she floated on her back in the sea, churning up enormous waves with her superlative tail, “is that there is no one here to enjoy it but me, and I cannot stay forever. When I go back to the Realm of the August Personage of Jade, there will be no one here to keep poor P’an Ku company.”

Nü-Kua swam to shore. Taking mud from the coastal flats, she began to sculpt creatures. With care and precision, Nü-Kua shaped myriad creatures out of the stiff mud: fish and horses, spiders and ducks, gorillas and dogs, elephants and dung beetles, mudskippers and platypuses. Every kind of creature that walks or crawls or creeps or leaps or flies or swims, Nü-Kua made it with her long careful dragon fingers, lining them up at the water’s edge.

Nü-Kua took a step back and regarded her creations. There were almost enough, she thought, but not quite. Scooping up some more mud, she sculpted three more creatures: a woman, a man, and a cat.

“There,” Nü-Kua said, finally pleased. “That’s exactly what was needed. Now P’an Ku will always have company.” With that, Nü-Kua leaned down and breathed her Divine breath into every last one of the creatures, opening their bodies so that the Essence of Life could find a place within them to inhabit. Nü-Kua reached out to the heavens and beckoned to the Essence of Life, who rushed to explore all these new things, and one by one, all the world’s creatures were brought to life.

Having seen to it that P’an Ku would not lack companionship, and having seen all there was to see of the world, Nü-Kua made ready to return to the Realm of the August Personage of Jade. Just then she felt a tiny tap on her left forefoot and looked down to see what it was. It was the Man she had made, kneeling before her in fear, awe, and confusion.

“Please, Great Goddess,” the Man said, “Can you help me? I am so small and this place is so big and I’m afraid I don’t know what I’m supposed to do.”

Nü-Kua nodded, pity welling up in her heart. She had made him rather tiny, hadn’t she, compared to the size of P’an Ku’s world. Why, even had she made a thousand more like the Man, then crammed them all together in a bundle, they wouldn’t be even as big as P’an Ku’s littlest toe. The poor thing was going to need a sense of Purpose if he was going to survive. So Nü-Kua lifted the Man up to eye level and looked him over carefully, then gently brought the trembling creature to her lips. With the tiniest kiss she could manage, she imparted Purpose to the Man, then set him gently back down again.

Now Nü-Kua turned her attention to the Woman, who sat on a fallen tree trunk, playing with the cat with a long piece of grass. It would never do, Nü-Kua thought, to give a gift to the Man without giving a gift to the Woman as well, how unfair! But it was also perfectly clear to Nü-Kua that the woman already had a sense of Purpose, though where she’d gotten it from even Nü-Kua didn’t know.

Nü-Kua thought about it for a moment, then realized she knew exactly what to give the Woman. Nü-Kua encircled the woman’s shoulders with the tip of her tail, so as not to disturb her ability to play with the cat, and with a twitch of her inmost Divine essence, transmitted the gift of Endurance to the Woman.

The woman felt it and smiled, looking up and over her shoulder at the spiraling blue beauty of Nü-Kua. “Thank you,” said the Woman. “That will certainly be useful. I am eternally in your debt, mighty Nü-Kua.”

The Woman bowed deeply from her seat on the log, and when she straightened, she looked up at the dragon goddess again. Nü-Kua’s right eyebrow arched in question, sending sparkling rays of iridescent light arcing crazily across the seashore.

“I was just wondering, O beautiful, O powerful Nü-Kua, about the Cat,” the Woman said. “Have you no gift to give such a marvelous creature as this?”

“The Cat,” answered Nü-Kua with the faintest hint of a smile, “has everything it needs already.”

With that, Nü-Kua lifted her long splendid body into the air and flew off into the stars, guiding herself through and beyond the stars, back to the Realm of the August Personage of Jade.

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Furry Fish and Other Good Eating

I am one of those weird people who really loves anchovies.  I know I’m in good company, because some of my friends, and indeed my Belovedary, also adore the little furry fish (okay, they’re not actually furry, but their infinitesimally tiny bones sometimes stick out of the filets in ways that have made our household refer to them as “furry fish”).

Yesterday I scored an outrageous huge jar of primo Sicilian anchovy filets packed in beautiful olive oil.  This, you may rest assured, made me very happy, and I proceeded to bring it home and open it up to make one of my very favorite salad dressings, which I will now share with you here in order to spread the furry-fish love.  All quantities are approximate, and you may alter them as you please in order to get a different, or more intense, taste, as you prefer.

Hanne’s Mysteriously Good Salad Dressing

6-8 oil packed anchovy filets, mashed into paste with a fork
2 tablespoons oil from the anchovy jar
1 medium clove garlic, crushed or very finely minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
large pinch sugar
2/3 cup good olive oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar (your choice)
freshly ground black pepper

Mash salt and garlic together with the back of a spoon to form a paste.  Add mashed anchovies and combine.  Add oil from the anchovy jar and other olive oil, then vinegar, and pinch of sugar.  Give it a half-dozen good turns of the pepper mill if you like, or alternately don’t add the pepper to the dressing but remember to pepper the salad itself.

Whisk together to emulsify.  Let stand 15-20 minutes minimum before serving, overnight is better.  Shake or whisk to re-emulsify before drizzling over your salad.

This makes about a cup.  People who think they don’t like anchovies often like this salad dressing, a fact which has always amused me.  Generally they can’t tell that there are anchovies in it, they just know it tastes good.  I don’t warn them, unless they’re vegetarians or vegans and they might be pissed off if I didn’t.  Give it a try.  It’s also very nice as a dipping sauce for steamed artichokes, if you are given to committing artichokage, which really you probably ought to be.

In other kitcheny news, I have been making many batches of fleur de sel caramels these past couple of weeks, in order to give them away as holiday-season gifts.  If you have not had the pleasure of a fleur de sel caramel, you’d be amazed by how good they are.  If you have had the pleasure, you’re probably wondering why I don’t just shut up and get to the recipe already.

All right, all right.  Sheesh.

Easy Fleur de Sel Caramels

For this recipe you need a large deep heavy-bottomed saucepan, at least 6 quarts, and a small saucepan.  You also need a candy thermometer, a wire whisk, a wooden spoon, and a plastic spatula, and an 8×8 inch baking dish or something of similar size.  Waxed paper, too, or, better yet, silicone coated parchment paper.

This recipe works best if you do all your mise en place before you start cooking anything.  So.
1. Line the baking dish with waxed paper or parchment paper.  You may use buttered parchment paper if you prefer but it’s a pain in the butt, so I don’t.
2. In the large saucepan, place 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, 1/4 cup water, and 1/4 cup light corn syrup
3. In the small saucepan, place 1 cup heavy cream, 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, and 1 heaping teaspoon fleur de sel.
4. Arrange, on a plate adjacent to your cooker (so you don’t end up getting sugar syrup everywhere), your wire whisk, wooden spoon, plastic spatula, and candy thermometer.

Now then.  Turn a medium heat on under your large saucepan and commence to whisking together the sugar, water, and corn syrup.  Keep stirring with the whisk as it comes to a boil, at which point the mixture should turn from an opaque slurry to a clear thick syrup.  Allow it to boil, swirling the pan occasionally to rinse any crystallizing sugar down from the sides of the pan, until it turns a nice light gold color.

While the syrup is boiling — it takes it a bit to start to turn color — turn the heat on under your cream, butter, and salt, and bring it to a boil, stirring occasionally, then turn off the heat.

Once the sugar syrup is ready, pour in the cream mixture all at once and whisk like hell.  It will foam up, but don’t be afraid, just whisk it vigorously until it calms down some.  Now you will have a bubbling magma of caramel.  Put the candy thermometer in the pot and turn the heat down a bit so that the caramel simmers, but not so vigorously that it spits, because getting hit by droplets of boiling caramel is painful and also messy and really, you don’t need it.

Simmer, stirring occasionally (and scraping down the pan walls occasionally) until the mixture gets to 250F.  Pour into your prepared pan.  Sprinkle several pinches of fleur de sel over the top, it looks pretty and tastes nice.

Let cool 2-3 hours, or until the center is completely firm, before cutting into small rectangles.   Serve to the deserving, or hoard it all for yourself.

There.  Happy now?

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The Trouble With The Universe

The trouble with the universe is basically that entropy wins. Any one of us may triumph briefly, but ultimately, entropy can count on victory. Even after all that’s left are cockroaches and gonorrhea and huge plastic highway fast-food signs looming high over the decimated landscape on their gigantic aluminum poles like meaningless flags left on the battlefield after a massacre, entropy will still be on the job, nibbling away at the aluminum and injection-molded plastics and seeing to it that eventually the cockroaches die of gonorrhea and the gonorrhea dies of not having any more cockroaches to live in.

But somehow with houses, entropy seems to happen in bursts.

I have empathy for houses falling apart. I really do. For one thing, I have lived in old houses nearly all my life, so I’m well familiar with cracks in plaster and pipes that make weird noises and floorboards that squeal. But also, I realize that houses are nothing but big boxes that stand outside in the rain and the heat and the sunlight and the snow, and on the inside, people do horrible things like let water fall out of holes in the wall, and cook things, and knock holes in the walls to let the light in from outside (when there is plenty of perfectly good light outside, too, if they’d only go there instead), and breathe, producing endless quantities of water vapor that have to go somewhere.

I mean, if you were a big box and people did all those things to you while making you stand outside with no protection from the elements, you’d get a little out of sorts, too. Maybe sometimes you would have a little tantrum.

Like mine did yesterday morning, when I noticed a small but definite quantity of water dripping from out of the light fixture in the middle of my kitchen. This is not a place from which one likes water to drip, water and electricity being a potentially nasty mixture, but it is a place from which water, if trapped in a space between a ceiling and a floor, does indeed like to drip, since the thing about light fixtures in ceilings is that they represent the presence of at least one and possibly multiple holes already made in said ceiling. Easier to flow through a hole that already exists than it is to erode one, and all that. Very Taoist.

So I turned off the light, shoved a large bowl with a dishtowel in it under the (minor) leak, began the massive freakout process, and called the plumber. The massive freakout process is a thing that goes along with water-related house entropy events, because unlike some other classes of house entropy event — a nonfunctional doorknob, for instance, or peeling paint — I know very little about how to diagnose or fix them and because they are beyond my ken they are additionally beyond my personal immediate control, and thus I become easily convinced that anything that happens may very well truly be the tip of some multi-thousand-dollar iceberg of horrible that has already affected multiple areas of my home and will render me penniless and all but homeless during the extended duration of the period required to make the situation even nominally better.

Note that this is true even when the quantity of water is very small, as in this case, where there was a steady drip for about 3 minutes and a few intermittent kerplops for about five minutes after that and then nothing further.

At my plumber’s advice I tested to see whether it was really a pipe issue (filling the tub partway and letting it drain out, flushing the toilet a few times, running water in the sink). It was not. It was, as my plumber, Karnak the Great, successfully diagnosed over the telephone, a problem of caulk and grout.

So, armed with a charming houseguest who read to me from zir new book whilst I labored, I pulled out some really revolting old caulk, which proved to me that indeed it probably was a caulk issue, since a good foot and a half long section of caulk was not exactly adhered to anything, and was just kind of lying there in the gap between the top rim of the tub and the bottom edge of the tiles on the wall growing interesting slimy molds on it.

In my inspections, however, I also realized that there was an area of tile on the lower wall at the far end of the tub where the grout was cracked.

Well. Grout and tile I know from. I did not catastrophize one bit when it came to the grout and the tile. I went and got my utility knife to scrape out the cracked grout with, so that I could get rid of the bad grout and regrout it. Heck, I even have two different colors of polymerized sanded grout in my basement and a big old jug of acrylic admix. At last, something I could handle on my own! With some luck I could get the rest of the caulk out, recaulk, and fix the grouting all before lunchtime.

I was going to be the Home Repair Messiah. I was going to Save the Day. I was going to be the illicit love child of MacGyver and Bob Vila and get up in there and Fix Stuff. Best of all I was going to do it in front of a hot butch who digs capable femmes with tools.
So I went up to scrape out cracked grout. The grout came out easily, as cracked grout tends to do.

Then a 3×3 inch tile fell out of the wall entirely, into my hand. A cascade of crumbled drywall — not greenboard, not tile backer board, and certainly not concrete sheeting like Durock, which is what you ideally want to have behind wall tiles in any wetroom application — fell out after it. I tugged gently on the tile next to the open hole. It came out too. And the one next to that, and the one next to that, with more crumbled drywall falling out into the tub as I went.

I sighed and prodded the gap in the wall. There was some ugly old mildewy plywood. There was some foil insulation backing visible. There was some non-crumbled drywall if I reached up far enough behind the next course of tiles up. It was, in short, precisely the kind of completely shoddy, corners-cut, miserably patched-together home “improvement” job I have come to expect and despise from the people who previously owned this house.

Clearly the day still needed to be saved, but it was not going to be saved by me. Not when the question had now gone from “can I remove and replace the caulk throughout the tub/shower aread, and the grout around a handful of tiles,” to “I wonder how much of this wall needs to be torn out and rebuilt and retiled?” I lack the experience to know how to assess the level of damage to drywall (see above about having lived mostly in old houses), as well as not knowing how to adequately patch a hole of this kind where it had in the past been filled with a mixture of materials.

So I called one of our neighbors, who conveniently happens to be a shaman in the discipline of combatting house-related entropy, or, as they are also known, an experienced interior contractor. His name amongst his people, I believe, is Dances With Drywall. He is a terrifically sweet and kind guy. He has come to look at it. He was suitably chagrinned at the level of crap construction I unearthed, and happy to do the work for us, whatever it ends up taking to fix it. He will come back and work on fixing it later today.

So. No MacGyver points for me. Minus several million Bob Vila points for the jackasses who did the home “improvement” the last time. But three cheers, and more, for Mr. Nels “Dances With Drywall” Shumacher. And, it must be said, for my psychic plumber.

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Duck Pho

So what do you do with all that duck stock you made?

Well, you can make soup!  Many kinds of soup.  But it is particularly nice, I think, for pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup.  The soul of the bowl, with pho, is the broth.  And now that you’ve got a nice rich duck stock to work with, you might as well, no?

Take 2 quarts of stock and put them in a pot.  Add a good sized bundle of green onions (trimmed) and a thumb-sized hunk of ginger root that has been peeled and cut into coins.  Then pop in a small piece of star anise, an inch-long section of cinnamon stick (the Vietnamese kind if you’ve got it), some whole coriander seed (if you don’t have whole coriander, a light sprinkling of the ground kind is fine), a couple of whole cloves, and a half teaspoon-ish quantity of sweet fennel seed.  A healthy shot of nam pla (fish sauce) will salt and season at the same time.  Cover and simmer for an hour, strain, then hold at a low simmer until ready to serve.
When you are getting ready to make and serve your pho, take two cooked duck breasts (I don’t add the breasts to the cassoulet, so I used those) and slice them thinly.  If you have any leftover other meats — fish, thinly sliced steak, tofu, tempeh, seitan, whatever you have around that needs to be used — cut them into bite-sized bits and set them aside, too.   If you have leftover Asian dumplings, those can go in, too, particularly the won ton sort, and pot stickers work too (but not the steamed buns like gai bao). You’ll also want some sort of vegetable component.  Mung bean sprouts and Thai basil and cilantro are traditional; a chiffonade of romaine lettuce is very nice, or if you enjoy bitter greens like endive that’s good also.

Last, cook up some noodles.  Thin rice noodles are traditional; thin egg vermicelli are also good.  Whatever sort of Asian noodle you like is fine, really.  Cook them according to package directions and drain them.
Then assemble your bowl of pho.  Noodles first, then non-vegetable toppings, then broth, and don’t forget to leave room for veggies.

Delicious and light and savory.  A pound of noodles, two quarts of broth, and two duck breasts will serve 4.  Finish the bowl by squeezing in a healthy wedge of lime (or two, if you’re like me and you really like lime) over the top of it all.  It also helps the duck go further, and since duck is a little on the expensive side, why not?

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Cassoulet, Day 2, Part 1

Assembling a cassoulet is embarrassingly simple.

You need a great huge pot or pan with a lid, and all of it, including the lid, has to be able to  go in the oven. This is the one I have, it’s fabulous and worth every (considerable) penny, but I have made happy cassoulets in everything from Corelleware to cast iron Dutch ovens to a big Chinese clay pot.  So it doesn’t much matter what you’re gonna cook it in.  There ain’t no such thing as a “cassoulet pot.”  (Of course I believe that there isn’t any such thing as a paella pan or a tarte tatin pan or a pommes Anna pan either, because I make them all in varying sizes of cast iron pans.  My kitchen is small and I just don’t have room or patience for 9000 fussy singlepurpose pans.  Who does?  I don’t know these people.)

Drain your beans. You remember the beans. You put them in to soak last night. Those.  Drain them.  Put them into the baking dish.

Next, put your faux-confit duck parts in, nestled down into the beans.  Ditto with your pork bits.  Chop your sausage(s) into portion-sized chunks and put those in.  Peel and halve a couple of small onions and put them in, and maybe a few small turnips if you have them, or a couple-four carrots.  Definitely throw in a handful of peeled whole garlic cloves.  Tuck in a bay leaf, and if you have some fresh thyme, tie a few sprigs together with kitchen twine and pop that in too.  It is a nice touch to take one of those halved onions and stick a few whole cloves in it before you throw it in, but it’s not necessary.
Pour in about a quart and a half of poultry stock if you have it or water if you don’t (it certainly isn’t going to suffer for flavor regardless of which you use).  The beans should be covered to the depth of about an inch of liquid.

Cover the pan and put it in a moderate (350 degrees F) oven.  Leave it in there at 350 F for an hour and a half, then reduce the heat to 250 degrees F.  Leave it for another hour or two, then remove the lid.  Move the meat bits around so that the parts that have been out of the liquid get a chance to be in the liquid, etc.

Return to the oven, uncovered, to let some of the liquid cook off.  As it cooks it’ll form a delicious crust on top.  Great battles have erupted between the kinds of people who have great battles about these things over the issue of how often this crust should be broken and pushed down into the bubbling beany goodness below.  Frankly I fail to detect any significant difference no matter how often or how rarely I do it, so I don’t worry about it one bit.  But I do, a few times over the course of the day that a cassoulet spends in my oven, give it a stir/redistribution of goodies.

Let it cook until it’s done.  It’s done when you want to eat it, as long as when you want to eat it coincides with at least 4-5 hours of oven time after you turned the heat down. If it gets too dry, add more stock or water. It shouldn’t be too soupy, unless you like that.

Eat.  With a green salad (you need some greens with this, and some vinegar, to balance the richness out).  Some crusty bread is nice to sop up the juice with.  Beer, or cider, or a red wine you like that isn’t too sweet, or just cold good water.

If you must have dessert, fruit is the way to go, and maybe a small quantity of very dark bitter chocolate.

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